Aboard the Georgia

Huge container ship is run by a crew of 19 sailors

By MATT HILBURN, Associate Editor

The M/V Maersk Georgia is a hulking container ship nearly 1,000 feet long. Its lines no doubt would preclude it from winning any ship beauty pageants, but beneath the utilitarian exterior lies a marvel of efficiency.

Georgia, a G-class container ship operated by Maersk Line Ltd., is among the most modern in the U.S.-flag merchant fleet, capable of transporting up to 4,300 containers at speeds just over 24 knots. Moreover, the ship, which is about 100 feet shorter than a Nimitz-class aircraft carrier, is run by a scant 19 merchant mariners who take the ship from the U.S. East Coast through the Mediterranean, into the Middle East, on to India and then back on 49-day runs.

Georgia is one of four Maersk vessels that participate in the Maritime Security Program, making it available to the Defense Department in time of need. The program was established by the Maritime Security Act of 1996 and provides approximately $100 million annually for up to 47 vessels to partially offset the higher operating costs of keeping these vessels under U.S.-flag registry.

“In older days, a ship like this would carry a crew of 44,” said Capt. James Rodgers, a merchant mariner since 1973, who came on board in Norfolk, Va., to start a typical 98-day stint as captain of the ship. “Now it’s a crew of 19, so there’s been a dramatic scaling back of crew size.”

It’s almost eerie how few people there are on a ship of this size as it makes its way from Norfolk to Newark, N.J., where nearly half of the crew will change out during a 24-hour port call before the ship heads back across the Atlantic. “Make a hole,” is a phrase you’re never going to hear on Georgia because you can easily walk around the eight decks of quarters, offices, gallies, messes and recreation rooms without seeing a soul.

Life for the crew of the ship is hectic, particularly as the ship prepares to arrive or depart.

“From Charleston to Newark, there’s simply no time to do maintenance,” Rodgers said. “If we’re not picking up a pilot, we’re rigging for picking up a pilot. If we’re not dropping the pilot off, we’re rigging to put all the stuff away.”

While at sea, a more regular pattern sets in with crew members working four hours on watch followed by eight hours off, but with only 19, it’s not always routine.

When asked what he did with his free time aboard ship, Chief Engineer Phil Waddleton, just laughed.

“We can’t do everything,” he said. “Alarms may go off all the time, and the hardest part is trying to allocate jobs. Everything can’t be a high priority.”

It’s a grueling workload.

“It’s a great feeling to come back,” said Rodgers. “I’m so tired at the end of the 98 days that the only thing I can think of is ‘I gotta get off that ship.’ You’re mentally and physically beaten up.”

In order to keep nerves from fraying, there’s a very collegial atmosphere on board, and the de rigueur coveralls give no display of rank or job title. There are two types of merchant mariners: licensed merchant mariners, the equivalent of officers in the Navy, and unlicensed, which make up the enlisted side.

“We tend to work together and not emphasize hierarchy,” said Rodgers. “I may address an [able-bodied seaman] just as a friend.”

When asked, most of the crew agreed that the hardest part of the job is being away from friends and family for extended times.

“It’s difficult to be married and do this,” Rodgers said.

The crew is organized into three departments. The deck department is responsible for maintaining the ship and seamanship, while the engineering department keeps things running. Finally, the steward department takes responsibility for meals and sanitation.

Georgia arrived in Norfolk early in the morning of July 20 from Charleston, S.C., and will leave in the afternoon. While dockside, specially designed cranes descend on the ship, loading and offloading containers to a seemingly endless line of trucks that bring containers to the ship and carry offloaded containers either to be sorted for the next ship or trucked out to their final destination.

It’s an intricate dance that continues right up to departure. Apart from dangerous cargo and what is contained in the many refrigerated containers, or “reefers,” crew members do not know what they’re hauling.

“They get us in and out as fast as possible,” said Vanessa McPhail, a cadet from the Maine Maritime Academy who’s working the summer aboard Georgia. “I didn’t really expect that.”

Georgia eased out of its berth in Norfolk late in the afternoon, under the guidance of docking pilot Allen Downs. Once clear, the docking pilot transferred to a tug that pushed the huge ship away from the dock and into the harbor channel.

The ship then takes on a harbor pilot who barks out headings and speeds as he guides the ship out to sea. Once clear of the channel, he departs via a small boat that pulls alongside Georgia.

“On a carrier there may be 19 or 20 guys doing what you just saw three do,” Rodgers said, adding that comparisons between a merchant ship and a Navy ship are hard to make given the different missions.

The sea is incredibly calm, with no remnants of tropical storm Beryl visible. The bridge, a hub of activity during departure, darkens and the watches begin as the ship starts the 17-hour jaunt to Newark. It’s dinner time.

Later in the evening, there’s little sense of activity aboard the ship except for the hum of the engines.

Much of the crew has retired to their cabins, which are Spartan, yet comfortable. Many have them decorated and equipped with DVD players and personal stereos. Since the ship runs on a 220-volt electrical system, one needs a transformer and an adapter to plug in appliances. They are a hot commodity.

There’s a rudimentary gym onboard, and then, of course, there’s always food, which is quite good and certainly plentiful. Usually there is a choice of entrees with dinner, several sides, a salad bar and various baked desserts. Breakfast includes: eggs, bacon, fresh fruit and cereals. Lunch on this particular day was Philly cheesesteak sandwiches, fries, soup and a salad bar. There’s also a “night lunch” of cold cut sandwiches.

Franklin Cordero is the chief steward responsible for feeding the crew (See sidebar, this page).

“It used to be ‘ Old World’ food, like oxtail, tripe, ox tongue. … We had to do butchering back then,” he said. “It’s gotten a little more automated in some areas except

for the baking. I wish that would be a little more automated considering it’s a three-man steward department.”

As Georgia eases into its berth in Newark, Rodgers grins widely, happy another docking has gone without incident. Almost immediately, the cranes descend on the ship and begin the loading and unloading process. In 24 hours, a cargo-laden Georgia will sail, bound for the Mediterranean.

“We’re kind of the forgotten arm of both the military and commercial sector,” said Mark Richardson, 3rd mate on Georgia. “Everyone wants their stuff, and most of it comes by ship.”